"I've got how long to live!" That's right, latex masks don't
last forever. Whether you wear yours to work everyday or
store it in an airtight, 24 hour guarded display case, you
want to protect your rubber friends. "the Mask Doctor" has
been fixing sick masks for many years. He has a few
recommendations for prolonging the life of your treasures and
a few other tips. Take it away doc...
Hello. I’m Kelly Mann, a.k.a. "the Mask Doctor", thus titled
for my techniques of care & repair of rubber masks and similar
memorabilia, I have been involved professionally with special
effects and makeup for nearly twenty-five years. I have worked
for Hollywood's major movie studios, as well as the top theme
parks throughout the United States.
As the Mask Doctor, my studio has become an emergency room for
aging and damaged masks. There, I can provide patching,
hairing, foaming, and custom painting services for your
cherished collectible, with a near-100% success-rate!
There are however, certain precautions you can take, and
things “not to do”. Simple ways that you can prolong the life
of your own masks.
Remember, masks are made of natural latex. They have a finite
life span.
We can extend their usefulness with common sense, and a little
know-how.
The major enemies of all latex masks are:
Perspiration- It contains oil, and oil rots rubber.
Petroleum- Any kind of oil, Vaseline, or solvent, dissolves
latex.
Sunlight- UV rays and ultraviolet. They also make rubber
brittle.
Heat- Heat will bake out the natural moisture rubber needs.
Crushing- If folded, and under pressure, masks will crease.
Age- Any mask, no matter how you baby it, will eventually
rot.
If you wear your masks, please be careful to clean them well
on the inside as well as the outside. A washcloth with a mild
soap solution, followed by a water wipe and dry will remove
any perspiration, saliva, and make-up. When dry, you should
follow this with a light dusting of baby powder inside to help
keep it dry.
If the mask has long hair that needs attention, don’t wash it!
Brush the hair using a very gentle wide toothed brush, or an
Afro pick comb. Starting at the ENDS and working gently toward
the roots, Brushing out one small area at a time. If the hair
is extremely dirty, gently dab it with a water-dampened paper
towel. Allow to air dry. Avoid using a hairdryer. The heat
will restyle the hair if it is supposed to be curly or kinky.
Then brush the hair, as above.
Between wearings don’t just toss your mask in a closet. Store
it properly, and it will be ready for the next time.
It is a good idea to support your mask between wearings. If
you don’t have a Styrofoam wig stand to put it on, stuff it
with plastic garbage bags, to help it retain its’ shape. Many
people use newspaper, but I’ve found that to be too acidic,
and it eventually gets brittle and then affords no support.
(You know this if you have brittle back-issues of Famous
Monsters of Filmland!) Then store your mask inside another
plastic garbage bag. You can label it with a masking tape
label. Be sure to carefully dry out the mask's interior first,
of any perspiration or saliva, using one or more paper towels.
Allow it to dry thoroughly, then dust lightly with a little
talc or baby powder.
Remember to do this each time the mask is worn.
If your masks are displayed as showpieces, there are other
considerations as well. Obviously, we all can’t pay to have
museum cases built to protect them, so here are some more
affordable ideas.
The previous tips apply here too. However the first and best
protection is a proper method of displaying the mask. It
should be supported by a Styrofoam wig stand at LEAST. If the
mask is too tall, or the neck is too long, masking tape the
wig stands’ base to an empty plastic peanut butter jar. And
fill it with rocks or sand for better balance.
The best support however, is to have the mask foam-filled.
It’s light, completely inert, and fully supports every part of
the mask. Of course, I offer this service on my Mask Doctor
web-site.
Once your mask is properly supported, consider where you are
going to display it. Choose a spot that is out of direct
sunlight, and is cool and dry.
If possible display your masks on a shelf that has another
shelf above it. This will help keep them out of sunlight and
dust-free. Use a display surface that is at least three feet
above the floor. Especially if you have pets. This will also
help keep them away from a dusty environment, the carpet.
As much as possible keep dust off your masks. Household dust
will trap moisture and oil, which degrades rubber. Remove dust
by whisking with a disposable paintbrush or any soft clean
brush. Clean with mild soap and water, and a soft cloth, only
in extreme cases of dirt or oil contamination.
Sometimes, depending on the type of paint used, or storage
problems, a displayed mask will yellow, or appear to “rust”.
This mask “rust” can be removed, but refer this to a
professional. (me.)
With the best of intentions, we can sometimes do more harm
when we think we’re helping. For instance, NEVER use any
silicone based rubber protectant products such as Armor All on
a mask. It can do some strange things to rubber over time. And
never EVER use shoe polish, Vaseline, or saddle soap. The oil
content will kill the liveliness of latex, and break it down.
If you want to re-paint a mask, do not use spray paint, or
model paints. Not only is it brittle, and will crack, but it
too contains petroleum solvents. Using makeup to color a mask
is also a mistake, since it is oil based. It Takes an
experienced eye to tell what kind of paint was used on your
mask. A re-paint should be compatible. For a quality paint
job, e-mail me.
Using these simple tips your masks should last for years, and
look their frightening best for seasons to come.